For instance, though in previous decades, up to 20,000 craftspeople were involved in the production of Ōshima tsumugi (a variety of slub-woven silk produced in Amami Ōshima) in 2017, just 500 craftspeople were left. Hand-woven and handspun tanmono are still made in Japan, but they are much more expensive, and the industry is in decline. Widths around 40 cm (16 in) are standard, as these were ergonomically the easiest widths to weave on a hand loom without a flying shuttle. Tanmono are woven narrow instead of being cut to a narrow width, with both vertical edges being selvages. Historic Japanese hand loom ( izaribata or jibata, a backstrap loom) Woven patterns include aya (patterned twill), donsu (satin damask), rinzu (figured silk) and mon-chirimen (patterned chirimen). Mon-ori (pattern weaving) includes patterning by varying the weave and patterning by weaving with variably-dyed threads. Mojiri-ori is a category of gauze weaves used for sha, ro and ra gauzes. Black shusu silk was previously commonly used as the reverse side for chūya obi. Shusu-ori is satin weave it is thick and lustrous with a heavy drape, but the long floats mean that the fabric tends to snag. Aya-ori or shamon-ori is twill weave, and produces soft, draping cloth. Hira-ori, a plain tabby weave, is simple, hardwearing, and widely used.
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